Everyone has been saying Papilles is amazing.

By everyone I really mean the food writer at my job, Eddie. To elaborate along that first sentence, Eddie is opinionated and vocal to the point that he could appear to be at least thirty people which could grant him the title of “everybody”. He mentioned this restaurant a few weeks ago and since then I wanted to check it out. His description praised the beauty in the dishes in spite of it being underrated by Angelenos. Trusting his opinion I wanted to make a visit but became distracted by the everyday nuances of life. Thankfully, the universe rotated things in my favor and I was invited to the restaurant to preview their “Farmer’s Dinner” menu (no price for this specific menu). Good looking out, Universe.

Pronounced, pah-pee, the small restaurant is tucked away in a corner of a strip mall in the Hollywood Hills. With Capitol Records and the Hollywood Walk of Fame just a few miles south, it’s safe to say that Papilles is in a busy area of Los Angeles. Even though some are still unaware of its location, the restaurant seems to be doing pretty well with its regulars and the foot traffic of those who happen to stumble upon the spot or get invited. I was the latter.

With Chef Jordan Rosas leading the kitchen and Santos Uy curating the wine selection, this dinner would let the small bistro showcase a menu inspired by Chef Jordan’s visit to local farmers markets. Visiting the markets at least twice a week, Chef Jordan used the produce and ingredients he gets from hardworking farmers to be the theme of the dinner. With his regular prix-fixe dinners running $38 per person, I was ready to see how his farm inspired meal would turn out.

A couple of minutes after walking inside, I was sitting at a small table with a few friends. Catching up through boisterous conversation, I felt relaxed in the space. To my left was the dining area of tables with strangers who were all ready to enjoy the creative plates. The added chatter and voices bounced from wall to wall making the space feel like home. To my right was the kitchen where Chef Jordan and his team could be seen moving with haste to fill plates with food that gave the restaurant its acclaim amongst people like my co-worker Eddie. A few more minutes later and the starter was sent to our table.

In a tiny mug came a celery root clam chowder with lovage oil. As the mug sat in front of me, a light and fragrant aroma made its way upward. It was such a pleasant scent that I couldn’t wait to try the starter. I took a second to appreciate the bold colors of the white and green that sat in the cup and then tried the soup. The texture was smooth and the density was thick as it moved slowly across my lips. Only to have a small portion to taste made me want to stare the chef down until he sent another one to my seat. I didn’t, but I definitely thought about it long and hard.

As the plateware that held the amuse was cleared from the table, the first plate of food was put in its plate. The Winter Squash Salad was topped with honey poached cranberries, candied pecans, gorgonzola cheese, and arugula. Looking at the salad it was clear that it was a well-plated meal. It was brightly colored thanks to the yellow squash, red cherries, and green arugula. The colors combined together displayed a beautifully delicate salad that I was eager to try. I was actually shocked at how eager I was to try the salad! With just a couple of forkfuls I found myself enjoying it thoroughly. From the subtle taste of the squash to the sweet and crunchy pecans I loved the salad so much the bowl was empty just in time for the waiter to bring the next dish.

The second main dish was a plate of Hokkaido Scallops. A set of scallops was served with kohlrabi, grapefruit, sorrel, and a ginger lemongrass emulsion. This dish looked incredibly simple and stunning. I really liked how the scallops were layered with ingredients to the point that it looked like a piece of art on a dish. While I respect art very much and would never touch it in a museum, I wasn’t at a museum and the scallops wasn’t really art. I had no reservation in sticking my fork in it! I’m glad I did because every part of this plate tasted like it was made in heaven and brought down to the Papille’s guest by tiny cherubs. The scallops were thick, gentle, and carried a wonderful taste that showed it wasn’t overdone or overly seasoned. Each time I took slices of the scallops along with of the grapefruit mixed with the lemongrass ginger it felt like it almost melted in my mouth. It didn’t, but it felt like as quickly as it “melted” the entire plate disappeared.

The third and final entrée was the Mary Duck Breast. Carrots, salsify, and chard with a chocolate and coffee sauce sounded portions of duck on my plate. The bites I took of the duck offered me the most succulent meat ever. The duck was prepared and seasoned so well that the skin held in such a delicious flavor and as it sat in the chocolate sauce it now had a slightly sweet taste. Passing through the outer layer and into the central portion of the duck presented such a tender meat that made it so easy for me fall in love with it. As I covered the duck in the sauce and aligned it with the fresh vegetables it was easy for me to inhale the food.

It was gone so fast.

To bring the dinner to a close, we had Cheesecake for dessert. Meyer lemon, lavender, and chamomile honey covered the creamy cheesecake. A spoonful of the cheesecake had so many layers of flavor. It started off tart with the meyer lemon, then became sweet from the honey, even keeled as the cheesecake became prominent, and then it ended on a calming note with the lavender. It was a gradual rollercoaster of taste that would make me eagerly order the dessert time after time.

Dinner at Papille was just as good as everyone had said it would be. By everyone, I still mean Eddie. Seeing that Chef Jordan created a dining experience around sustainable and local ingredients made me appreciate the quality, delivery, and taste of each course even more. Before the evening officially began, Chef Jordan explained that the dinner was his chance to thank the farmers who supply him with his ingredients and produce. Being able to be a part of such a delicious dinner like this made me so appreciative that even I had to say thanks to them too.

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Address: 6221 Franklin Ave, Los Angeles, CA 90028
Phone: (323) 871-2026
Hours: Monday through Friday 6:00pm to 10:00pm and Saturday & Sunday 5:30 pm to 10:00pm
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