I can no longer stand in lines.

I will not stand in a line to get into the DMV, a concert, and not to get into a restaurant. I don’t care what waits at the end of the line, I cannot do it.

It’s not because I’m impatient, but after years of standing in line for concerts and theme parks in improper shoes, my calves can no longer take it and my ankles will not stand for it. Maybe it’s an indication that I’m getting old, but the mere idea of being upright in one place in a single file assembly toward a destination is not something I can see myself doing in the near future. The only exception is standing in line to get into heaven. However, even in that case I’m pretty sure Christ will look back at my life, smile at his good and faithful servant, and grant me a fast pass to skip everyone who was in front of me.

Are you feeling jealous of my smooth access into heaven? I would be too if I were you.

If we focus to what we have here on earth I don’t necessarily have the same access to avoid all lines that I may come across. A perfect example of this can be seen at one restaurant in particular. That place is Howlin Ray’s in Chinatown where the wait to get the Nashville style hot chicken can range anywhere from 30 minutes to an hour or more depending on the time of day. But the question is whether or not the wait in that line really worth it. I would soon find out for myself.

On my visit, I knew Howlin Ray’s would have people waiting to get inside and I wouldn’t be able to walk past them all; but the thought of it did make me warm inside. Instead, I joined the line. We were all waiting patiently after the normal business hours to order a sandwich or more at the restaurant owned by husband and wife duo, chef Johnny Ray Zone and Amanda Chapman. Bringing hot chicken to the Far East Plaza the two wanted to serve guests food that would “make you feel good and bring friends, families, and communities together”. With such a great desire that focused on those outside the restaurant and not on sales alone, I was interested in putting my comfort to the side to stand together with basically the entire community of Los Angeles.

The reason the doors were open late into the evening was in celebration of a capsule created by both Active R/S and Howlin Ray’s. A four part project would highlight leaders in the food and culinary industry in the beautifully titled “All You Can Eat” series. Within the series, 75 collaborative and limited skate desks were released with a few lined across the walls next to a few exclusive articles of clothing. I was interested in the partnership and the clothing until I smelled the chicken. After that, nothing else mattered but the food.

Meeting Chef Johnny once I stood inside the restaurant sent a surge of motivation throughout my body. To see the man behind the restaurant that has garnered daily lines that flirt with the length of infinity was exciting! He was amicable beyond belief, excited to no avail, and looked like his veins pumped with gumption instead of blood. In the controlled chaos that was the restaurant he let me step behind the counter to snap a few photos for Instagram and chat up a few of the staff as they spun around in an almost orchestrated coordination between grabbing buns, chicken, and sauce. It was beautiful, but the moment I was handed a mild and a hot sandwich I got out of the way.

The first of the two sandwiches I ordered and tried was the Mild ($11). The sandwich came with a thick slice of chicken that slid in between a butter bun, pickles, and Johnny’s slaw comeback sauce. Biting into the sandwich the first noticeable taste was the boneless chicken breast as it took up the majority of what was held within my hands. It was juicy and moist and the beautifully brown seasoning that enveloped the meat was full of a rich flavor. It was an even level of spice so that it was a gentle jolt of heat which quickly faded away into a subtly tangy flavor. It was perfect and would easily be the level of heat to satisfy even the most heat-averse individual.

In stark contrast to the Mild was the second of the two sandwiches. The Hot ($11) was honestly a bad decision that I didn’t realize until it was too late. This sandwich should come with a warning when you consider ordering it. There is a degree of intensity and heat within this sandwich that will become apparent fairly quickly causing you to question your life choices. While the toppings on the sandwich are the same as those in the mild, the appearance is slightly different. In the hot sandwich the color is a deep and bold red, almost satanic, acting as a precursor to the pain that is sure to ensue. And it does. There is a stronger burn in the Hot than there is in the Mild and it lasts longer than you would hope. Sure you could drink as much lemonade or water as you requested from the counter but it won’t help. Nothing helps. The only thing that will get you through the pain are the tears that trickle down your face acting as a temporary distraction from what is occurring across your tongue. If you don’t like spicy items, stick with the mild. If you like spicy food and don’t mind flirting your mortality, then this is the perfect sandwich for you.

I may be unwilling to stand in line, but after looking at the amount of people who wait to get into Howlin Ray’s I can see that I’m clearly one of few. To see people wait for such an extended period of time just to wrap their hands around the chicken sandwich with the heat of their choice is equal parts touching and surprising. Touching because the restaurant has attained such loyal customers, yet surprising because very few restaurants can acquire such devotion. After tasting the sandwiches from Howlin Ray’s I can understand why people will give up so much time in their day to this restaurant alone. The owners are inspiring, the staff is incredible, and the food (at the right temperature) is delicious. All that combined can somewhat justify the wait.

Is Howlin Ray’s seriously worth what could be an hour wait? Unfortunately for my calves and ankles, it is.

Every single time.

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Address: 727 N Broadway #128, Los Angeles, CA 90012
Phone: (213) 935-8399
Hours: Wednesday to Sunday – 11:00am to 4:00pm and Closed on Monday & Tuesday
Social: Website, Facebook, Instagram, and Twitter.