Does anyone get excited by the idea of eating lentils?

I’m pretty sure the answer is no. However if your day becomes brighter by the thought of them then I question the type of hobbies you have in your life. I’m not judging you though. Personally, lentils don’t instill any degree of excitement quietly within me or overtly across my face. My heart doesn’t skip a beat and a smile won’t stretch from ear-to-ear. It’s just lentils.

That was my way of thinking until I was invited to a lentils dinner at P.Y.T. in Downtown Los Angeles curated by Chef Josef Centeno. The dinner, Lentils & Utensils, was presented by Lentils.org in order to show the versatility of lentils. Working with Centeno would soon prove to be a great decision. The culinary maven acts as the pillar and the face to the Josef Centeno Group which houses restaurants including Bäco Mercat, Bar Amá, Orsa & Winston, and Ledlow, and the home of this evening’s dinner P.Y.T. I had little belief that even the respected Centeno, a James Beard Award nominated chef, could make me find favor in lentils when my well-loved grandmother, a woman who has never been nominated for any awards but deserved many, couldn’t make me love them. I’ve never held a favorable opinion of lentils. In fact, my reference of lentils was as edible legumes that no one really wants to eat, but people say is delicious because it’s healthy. It’s like kale. However, with the invitation to try the various plates that Centeno would create, I went to the dinner with an open mind.

Walking into the restaurant and taking in the beautiful décor I started to wonder how Centeno would incorporate the already lackluster lentils in ways that wouldn’t be dull. Sitting at a table with nutritionists and health experts, I seemed to be the only one unsure of how the dinner would go. It didn’t take long for conversations to begin as the first plate arrived to the table.

To start the dinner, Centeno sent out Chapati Bread with a variety of dips. Thin and warm slices of bread were paired with a plate that had a spin wheel layout of English pea and sesame dip, argenthal-berbere cheese dip, red lentil dip, and a turmeric, ginger, jujube butter dip. Grabbing a piece of bread, folding it, and smearing it across each dip was delicious. It didn’t take long to grab a heaping of the dip and smearing it over the bread. Repeating the process over and over with different varietals each time was a delicious exploration of flavors. From smooth and creamy dips to spicy and textured dips, it was easy to find a favorite: all of them.

Once all the dips disappeared, the second plate to the first course arrived. A beautiful arrangement of Geoduck was paired with split red lentils, mandarins, and celery. Unfamiliar with the look of geoduck, I Googled it before taking my fork to it. Word to the wise, don’t Google “geoduck”, especially prior to eating it. With the somewhat unpleasant image of the style of saltwater clam in mind I went ahead to familiarize myself with the taste of it with little hesitation and total curiosity. In spite of being extremely even in its texture and fairly thin, it was dense in its own ability. It carried little flavor, so that the accompanying ingredients, primarily the lentils, were able to take precedence. Though the lentils were small, on this plate they were surprisingly full of vibrant and memorable flavor.

Following the Chapati Bread and Geoduck was a beautiful Lobster Tail. Oversized pieces of lobster sat alongside beluga lentils and English peas. The dark colored lentils surrounded the bright red lobster in the small bowl. Taking a moment to savor the taste of the unlikely pair was interesting to say the least. The gritty texture of the lentils against the buttery lobster was a delightful pairing of opposites. I loved how Centeno managed to take two contrasting textures and made them work harmoniously to the point that there was no trace of the food left on the plate minutes later.

The third course brought two plates to the table. Pork Toro Escabeche and Amarosa Potatoes. The plate of pork was appealing to the eyes and the scent. The smell of the warm and lightly seasoned pork was fragrant to the degree that I couldn’t stop myself from diving into it as quickly as possible. The pork was delicate and carried the perfect degree of saltiness. The fava beans, amaranth, and tangy green lentils were the right additions to go with the pork. Opposite the pork, the amarosa potatoes were delicious. Served with wild mushrooms, lentils, zaatar yogurt, and thyme it was easy to find moments of delight with all that was arranged here. The potatoes folded with each bite allowing the soft lentils and the smooth yogurt to come forward and burst with an exciting taste.

The final plates to the table were dessert. We were given two bold and vibrant plates to close out the lentil dinner. The first was a Loquat Crostata. Made with crispy lentils and kumquats, I loved the contrasts of color from the muted brown crostata, pale white whipped cream, to the bright mustard color kumquat sauce. Here, the lentils were almost unnoticeable as I ate it since the flaky crust took the show. The buttery shell was all my mind could grasp as it blended with the accompanying sauce. While I would love to say the incorporation of the lentils was delicious, I honestly didn’t pay attention to them with everything else comprising the dessert on this plate. When it came to the second dessert and ultimately the final plate of the evening, the lentils were unforgettable.

The last dessert was a Gianduja. The sweet chocolate mousse appeared simple, but had such an impressive taste. In each spoon I got to relish in the smooth whipped attributes of the chocolate, a slightly hazelnut after taste, and the beautiful shavings that decorated it. The lentils here carried prominently as it offered a delightful texture to the smoothness within the bowl. Putting my spoon down and letting the empty desserts be removed, it was clear to see that Centeno ended the dinner at P.Y.T. the same way Dudamel would end a performance at the Walt Disney Concert Hall, on the strongest note possible.

After being part of such a delicious dinner within such a beautiful location, I can honestly say that my view on lentils has changed. Before I considered them to be food that those left behind after the rapture would have to survive on, but now I find them to be quite charming. While I wish I could say it was my grandmother’s cooking that changed my perspective on them, I can’t. Thanks to Chef Centeno and his culinary creativity through the Lentils.org initiative, he has made me willingly fall in love with the unique ways they can be enjoyed. Now should someone ask the question of if anyone finds lentils exciting, I can raise my hand.

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